I walk a lot here in Paris, and I see all kinds of (mostly great) style, especially in the ensembles the men here put together. Paris is cold and wet much of the year, so fashion follows function here for those who need to get from ce a la in the city.
Overcoats and parkas are common. All weather shoes are almost a necessity. And functional, sturdy jackets are essential.
Which brings me to my point: the purpose of a jacket is is to protect a man from the elements and present a uniform visual line from the shoulders to the legs. In doing this, it needs to cover the posterior, as this model from Brooks Brothers does in classic style.
Cross a bridge here on a windy day and the chill will definitely let you know that you’re jacket is too short. Yes, it may be fashionable right now. It will also be cold right now. Opt for a longer, more traditional cut on a jacket and you’ll have two things: a jacket you can wear five years from now and not look like you’ve outgrown it (or worse, that you’ve fallen victim to the whims of fashion); and a jacket that will serve you well (warmth wise) in less than perfect weather.
So, fair warning: ignore fashion. Moderate your jacket length. And, while I’m here, I might as well mention the ‘extra thin’ neckties that are in vogue right now. Moderate your tie and lapel width.
I lived through the 1970s, in which the shirt and jacket lapels reached almost aerodynamic widths, and I trudged through the 80s when they went skinny, like they did in the 60s. So steady yourself against the winds and trends. Traditional style. Natural fabrics. Moderate cut.
And of course, if you can manage it, On Sale.
- BGT