Every year at this time, I offer up my best advice for a back-to-school wardrobe that is lean, economical, durable, versatile, and timeless.
There are rarely any surprises: polo shirts, oxford cloth button downs, khakis, chinos, or corduroys, deck shoes and LL Bean boots, wool crew neck sweaters, and the inevitable blue blazer.
Nothing with big logos. Everything that can be mixed and matched with everything else.
I’ll rely on readers to offer up their latest opinions on brands–who’s holding the line, who’s dropped a little in the quality to price ratio, and any newcomers to the Old Money wardrobe world–that we should know about.
(I have lived in Paris for too long. My purchases lean now toward the artisanal rather than the mass-produced. So I am not a reliable source for up-to-date details and reviews on US based clothing companies.)
And even though we have discussed wardrobe extensively on this blog, I would like to add these comments for high school and university readers and their parents. I feel they are worth remembering.
(In doing so, I realize I fight against a rising tide of the casual-bordering-on-sloppy, where T-shirts, cargo pants, and flip-flops dominate daily life. While there is little I can do to alter income inequality, there is something everyone can do to alter social inequality: put some thought into what you wear. You don’t have to dress up, but it would benefit you to get dressed.)
Now, to summarize, please accept the following as the Gospel According to Uncle Byron:
The clothes you wear communicate certain ideas to other people, and they judge you accordingly, for better or worse, in this unfair and shallow world.
Your clothes infer the kind of life you lead.
They suggest the education and exposure you’ve had to the larger world.
They hint at your aspirations.
They articulate your values.
They announce the kind of attention you seek.
They establish the amount of respect you require.
Of course, dressing well is not the only signal of a quality life, but it walks ahead of you when you enter a room, silently introducing you to people who may want to share your life and to people who can certainly decide your future. It speaks for you in a classroom, an orientation, an interview, or a social event. It shapes opinion and alters perception. It is the original, eternal influencer.
This is reality. It has been like this in society for thousands of years. Those who ignore this reality do so at their peril. Those who embrace it and dress accordingly increase the chances of their success.
Given these facts, I encourage everyone to dress in whatever manner you think best.
And by all means, enjoy the results.
- BGT
“Your clothes infer the kind of life you lead.” Don’t you mean “imply the kind of life you lead”? Clothes can’t infer.
That’s my job. I make the “unfiltered comments” about grammar and usage around here.
If you wish to be taken seriously, dress seriously.
As I tell my kids, like posture, hygiene, physical ease, and so many other things, style is a form of non-verbal communication. What are you saying?
As the saying goes,”You never get a second chance to make a first impression.”
You are becoming artisinal, like a premium French cheese from a boutique fromagerie. 😛
Good evening Byron,
As always, it is a great pleasure to read your wonderful thoughts.
For those of us living in Western Europe, how would your usual choices change?
Obviously, khakis (maybe a bit slimmer, but never slim-fit…) are the go-to, but what about the Oxford shirt? Even though it originated in the UK, it is now deeply tied to American WASP culture. It gets softer with wear, is way more durable, and looks better over time (in my personal opinion)—but perhaps it is a bit too hot for summers here? What about a light blue poplin dress shirt instead? These days, that feels a bit too much like a “downtown banker” look to me… Personally, I reserve polo shirts for casual, free time around the house. Still, it is hard to find trusty, vintage, Made-in-USA Brooks Brothers OCBDs in my size and in great condition. I must admit I bought one from Uniqlo; they are reasonable—not the best collar, but great value for the price.
As for knitwear, I have pared everything down to three identical 3-ply navy Shetland sweaters; they feel cozy and will last for decades.
What about loafers, then? Is Alden still the ultimate choice?
Even though I am only in my early 30s, during the winter I switch from khakis to my beloved heavy-wale corduroys in a dark honey shade.
With a dad from Boston and a mom from London, I moved to Northern Italy when I was just a toddler and have lived here ever since. Yet, due to my parents’ influence, I have always dressed exactly like this. It feels like I live between two parallel worlds, never quite fitting into either.. Maybe I should change everything and pursue your “guide to Parisian minimalism”—soft, warm, and less of everything, in shades of navy or black? Then again, that often looks like what some football players over here might wear, or maybe not?
Apologies for the rambling, but I am at a bit of a loss.
From a long-time reader, have a great evening.
Hello again, PE. Yes, a poplin might be good as the summers turn hotter each year. Bengal stripes in blue, burgundy, and red are solid options. Alden and JW Weston (French brand) are great choices for loafers. I know that Mercer and Sons will ship to Italy. I think their OCBDs are hall of fame quality, and if you like that weight, you can always have them tailored in Italy if they’re too full in the body.
Thanks again. – BGT
Good morning PE,
On the topic of climate ready alternatives to the OCBD, may I suggest the obvious linen shirt? As the world heats up, those of us in more temperate climates can look to our cousins in the tropics for inspiration.
Yes, linen is a bit casual (however not any more casual when compared to an OCBD) but as the mercury rises we can be forgiven for eschewing the 3 piece heavy wool suit and tie for something a little more comfortable without having to dumb down to board shorts and flip flops.
Europe still experiences a winter, so we can fall back on our chinos, OCBD and wool when the weather allows.
J.C.C
Good morning Byron,
As always, it is a great pleasure to read your wonderful thoughts.
For those of us living in Western Europe, how would your usual choices change?
Obviously, khakis (maybe a bit slimmer, but never slim-fit…) are the go-to, but what about the Oxford shirt? Even though it originated in the UK, it is now deeply tied to American WASP culture. It gets softer with wear, is way more durable, and looks better over time (in my personal opinion)—but perhaps it is a bit too hot for summers here? What about a light blue poplin dress shirt instead? These days, that feels a bit too much like a “downtown banker” look to me… Personally, I reserve polo shirts for casual, free time around the house. Still, it is hard to find trusty, vintage, Made-in-USA Brooks Brothers OCBDs in my size and in great condition. I must admit I bought one from Uniqlo; they are reasonable—not the best collar, but great value for the price.
As for knitwear, I have pared everything down to three identical 3-ply navy Shetland sweaters; they feel cozy and will last for decades.
What about loafers, then? Is Alden still the ultimate choice?
Even though I am only in my early 30s, during the winter I switch from khakis to my beloved heavy-wale corduroys in a dark honey shade.
With a dad from Boston and a mom from London, I moved to Northern Italy when I was just a toddler and have lived here ever since. Yet, due to my parents’ influence, I have always dressed exactly like this. It feels like I live between two parallel worlds, never quite fitting into either.. Maybe I should change everything and pursue your “guide to Parisian minimalism”—soft, warm, and less of everything, in shades of navy or black? Then again, that often looks like what some football players over here might wear, or maybe not?
Apologies for the rambling, but I am at a bit of a loss.
From a long-time reader, have a great day
Bongiorno PE. Thank you for the kind words about the blog. With a parental lineage that combines Boston and London, you have probably had the best of two worlds when it comes to style influences. I wouldn’t jump ship to the Parisian black just yet. Stick with those khakis and cords, wools and cottons, earth tones and navy.
Yes, the European version of Old Money Style is going to involve slimmer cuts on shirts, blazes, and pants. As far as OCBDs go, this might be one area in which to splurge. Milan and Florence have a veritable buffet of small and (fairly) reasonably priced shirt makers who can fashion you an OCBD that will really go the distance in terms of price vs. years of use.
Consider Simone Arbbarchi in Florence to start. And let me know how the shirt safari progresses. Thanks again. – BGT
Good afternoon Byron,
Thank you for the precious information.
I guess it might be time to take a little trip to Florence then…
Best regards,
C E.
Very nice — and a question for the group. How do you handle receiving attitude when you show up dressed properly and one or more comments come insinuating that you didn’t understand, or, worse, that you are disrupting their preference of always casual? I hope that my usual response is helpful to others. I prefer just to respond, ‘Well, this is how I feel comfortable’, or simply, ‘This is how I dress.’
Whom are you associating with, that you have to explain yourself?
Hi JDV,
I just simply smile. There is no need to explain how you present yourself to the world. Those who may criticize you may find upon reflection that they do so because they know that perhaps they should “up their own game.”
Good evening JDV,
I agree with Frances, a smile sometimes tells more than a thousand words…
Best regards.
CE